Driveway Crack Repair
Sealing driveway cracks early is one of the cheapest ways to make a driveway last. Here's how to do it on concrete and asphalt.
Concrete vs. asphalt: different fillers
| Concrete driveway | Asphalt driveway | |
|---|---|---|
| Thin cracks (under 1/4") | Self-leveling polyurethane sealant | Pourable rubberized asphalt crack filler |
| Wider cracks (1/4"–1/2") | Backer rod plus polyurethane sealant, or concrete patch | Backer rod plus asphalt crack filler, or hot-pour filler |
| Wide cracks and holes | Concrete repair mortar | Cold-patch asphalt, tamped |
| Best weather | Dry, roughly 40–90°F | Dry and warm, above about 50°F |
How to repair driveway cracks
- Clean: pull weeds, scrape out debris, then blow or vacuum the crack clean. A pressure washer helps, but let the crack dry fully afterward.
- Fill deep cracks: insert foam backer rod or fill with sand to about 1/2" below the surface.
- Apply filler slightly proud of the surface. Use a caulk gun for tubes, or pour from the bottle for liquid fillers.
- Smooth with a putty knife or squeegee, and sand the surface while wet for grip if your product suggests it.
- Cure: keep cars off for the time on the label, usually 24–48 hours.
- For asphalt, apply driveway sealcoat over the whole surface after the cracks have cured.
Crack filler vs. crack sealer
The terms overlap. Generally, a crack filler fills the void, while a sealer or sealant is flexible and waterproof, meant to move with the crack. For driveways, flexibility matters, because temperature swings open and close cracks every day.
When to resurface or replace
- Cracks cover most of the surface ("alligator" cracking on asphalt)
- Sections have heaved or sunk more than about 1/2"
- The surface is crumbling or flaking (spalling) over large areas
- The driveway is past its typical lifespan, roughly 15–20 years for asphalt and longer for concrete
Raised concrete slabs can often be lifted with foam or slurry injection ("slab jacking") for much less than replacement.